Stefano Carnati, Flatanger, 2019. Foto: François Peraldi. Fonte: Instagram/S. Carnati

Carnati: “Forse è la seconda salita più difficile che ho fatto finora!!!”

Stefano Carnati, che l’anno scorso ha chiuso “Biographie” 9a (+), ha ripetuto “Thor’s Hammer” nella celebre grotta di Flatanger, in Norvergia, salita per la prima volta da Adam Ondra nel 2012.

Le prese bagnate all’inizio gli hanno causato molti problemi, mettendolo in difficoltà sulla prima sequenza per giorni. Il terzo giorno sulla via, Carnati ha collegato tutta la parte più dura dal quarto bolt.

“Forse è la seconda salita più difficile che ho fatto finora!!!” , ha commentato il climber sul suo Instagram

 

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🇳🇴 🌺➕⚡🔨 • 5 August 2018, my longest day at the crag ever: @lukecayman was stuck in the sequence of “Flaggermusmannen” (easiest 8a in Flatanger?) till 10pm, giving it tries and tries. Bugs started to kill me. 5 August 2019: I walked up to the crag in the mist, slipped off a stone and fall into a hole, slightly hurting my knee. Luca showed up some time later. The desire of climbing was low for both. After waiting some time, in between tries on my proj, Luca warmed up on “slice of cake” (classic in the 7a range), tried hard and picked his NORDIC FLOWER L1 [8b+] first try of the day🔥🔥 Later on I was still unable to make progress from bolt number 5, out of a total of 30🤯! On a climbing trip, to keep high motivation, the key is not to get stuck in one situation for too many days… and I was! Being able to link all the hardest sections, skipping the first few moves of the part that seeps, on my third day on the route gave me a lot of confidence at the beginning, but these few wet holds caused me troubles. Climbing the first crux sequence with the feeling of wetness in my hands made a big difference and I struggled for days. The next day I woke up feeling tired, physically but most importantly mentally, but with a light breeze blowing in the cave, making things dry, I know I could not miss the chance. Pressure was high. At the end of the day, with the sun coming in the cave I decided to go for one last burn. I did the move! Everything went smoothly, I moved up fast and could recover well at the rests. With the last rail in front of me, I took a deep breath. Robot mode was on… first match… second match… third… forgot the beta… jug… forearms on fire… clipped the chain of THOR’S HAMMER [9a]✔!!! A real beast ⭐ and possibly my second hardest ascent so far!!! Props to Magnus for bolting it and Adam for the first ascent! Huge thanks to Luca who went blind while belaying and @pierre__marzullo for the support👊🏻 • Merçi François Peraldi pour les 📸 e le poisson🎣🐟 • #norway #flatanger #hanshelleren #falling #climbing #lasportiva @camp1889 @dfsportspecialist @rockexperienceofficial @ragnidilecco @asd_ragnidilecco @skillsrls

Un post condiviso da Stefano Carnati (@teto_carnati) in data: 7 Ago 2019 alle ore 1:32 PDT